According to
this report, today as the third Sunday in July is National Ice Cream Day. Furthermore, in 1984 Ronald Reagan issued another order designating this
whole month as National Ice Cream Month. And none of that should limit me: as a Bostonian, I consider every day to be Ice Cream Day. [Shout outs to
Wally’s Wicked Good Ice Cream,
Cabot’s,
Lizzy’s, and
J.P. Licks.]
Last week Lee Wright at
The History List asked me about a statement that shows up in many feature articles this time of year that President
George Washington spent a great deal on ice cream. Lee found statements of the current value of that purchase ranging from
“over $5,000” to
“about $100,000”—on ice cream in 1790. But what’s the historical basis of that claim?
I followed dribbles on the web back through Paul Dickson’s
Great American Ice Cream Book (1973) to mid-century trade journals with titles like
Confectionary and Ice Cream World and
The Ice Cream Trade Journal. Several of those sources say the merchant who billed Washington for about $200 worth of ice cream was “Mr. Cove of Chatham Street.”
In fact, he was Joseph Corré, a native of
France, reportedly a former cook for a British army officer who stayed in
New York after the war. He ran nine notices in the
New York Daily Advertiser in May-June 1790 thanking patrons for buying ice cream and ice from him. He sold out of his house at 55 Wall Street.
In May 1791 Corré opened a
theater on State Street, presenting
The Beaux’ Strategem and
The Lying Valet. His Columbia Gardens and Mount Vernon Gardens businesses became notable values for plays and concerts in early New York, and he also appears in histories of the American circus.
According to
this catalogue page, Mount Vernon owns Corré’s receipt for £51.6s.2d of ice cream and “mouls” (molds) delivered to Washington’s household from June to August 1790. I also saw mention in an antiques magazine of another Corré receipt for the President’s kitchen for earlier that spring, so he was a regular supplier. I don’t know when Corré’s ice cream receipt became public knowledge, but it looks like that happened about 150 years after he wrote it out.
Did George Washington eat that much ice cream? Not by himself. Rather, ice cream was part of how he and
Martha entertained guests, officials, their wives, and members of the public at regular “levees,” or receptions.
Abigail Adams described them in a
letter to her older sister,
Mary Cranch, on 27 July 1790:
mrs washington…has fix’d on every fryday 8 oclock. I attended upon the last, [with] mrs smith & charles. I found it quite a crowded Room. the form of Reception is this, the servants announce—& col [David] Humphries or mr [Tobias] Lear—receives every Lady at the door, & Hands her up to mrs washington to whom she makes a most Respectfull curtzey and then is seated without noticeing any of the rest of the company. the Pressident then comes up and speaks to the Lady, which he does with a grace dignity & ease, that leaves Royal George far behind him. the company are entertaind with Ice creems & Lemonade, and retire at their pleasure performing the same ceremony when they quit the Room.
Adams put a similar description, also including “Ice creams,” in her
6 Feb 1791 letter to
Cotton Tufts.
(Those period quotations negate a statement in Benson J. Lossing’s
Mary and Martha: “Ice-cream, the favorite delicacy of today, was then unknown.” But that book about the women in Washington’s life has long been recognized as hopeful myth. In fact,
Mount Vernon has found records of the Washingtons buying ice cream equipment as early as 1784.)
The next question is how much £51.6s.2d. was worth in American dollars in 1790 and would be worth today? And that’s quite a complex question. In fact, examining how early American money worked is a very good way to realize that colonial life was by no means simple. There wasn’t enough specie (gold and silver coins) circulating in the economy, so most people paid off bills with paper notes whose values fluctuated depending on who had issued them, how far away the issuing institution or person was, and other factors. Most articles suggest the President’s ice cream purchase amounted to $200, which is probably a low approximation.
The next issue is how to calculate changes in currency between 1790 and today. The
Measuring Worth website has been developed out of John J. McCusker’s monograph
How Much Is That in Real Money? But there’s still a problem with equivalencies: because of technology, changing demands and supplies, the move away from coerced labor, and other factors, the real prices of different goods and services have changed at different rates. For example, unskilled labor is much more expensive these days while cloth is much cheaper. When I enter “£51” and “1790” into the
Measuring Worth page for “Computing ‘Real Value’ Over Time With a Conversion Between U.K. Pounds and U.S. Dollars, 1774 to Present,” the result is:
When using the CPI/RPI, the (average) value in 2010 of £51 from 1790 is $6830.00. The range of values is from $0.00 to $9250.00. This answer is better if the subject is a consumer good or something else of interest to an individual.
Ice cream is of abiding interest to me, but I can’t say that fact makes narrowing a range between zero and $9,000 any easier. But I think we can eliminate the “about $100,000” figure cited above.
Because of modern refrigeration, ice cream is probably much cheaper relative to other foods than it was in Washington’s time. That means even if £51 in 1790 is on average about $6,800 today, I bet $6,800 today could buy even more ice cream than £51 bought for the Presidential mansion in 1790.